Berber Veils

24-12-2009

(11) women's headbands 'tachedat n'tritat', Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, weaving length ca. 45 - 65 cm (17,8'' x 25'') / overall length incl. fringes ca. 150 - 170 cm (ca. 60'' - 65''), early / first half 20th cent.

(12) women's artificial braids made from wool, Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, overall length ca. 80 cm (ca. 32''), first half / mid 20th cent.

(13) women's shawl 'tabrdouhte' (arab. handira), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, 248 x 84 cm (97,6'' x 33''), late 19th / early 20th cent. This example contains a considerable amount of linen yarn (2 ply hand spun) in the white design parts, a material that has been quickly substituted in the Ahel Telt region by fine industrial cotton yarns (3 ply machine spun) around the end of the 19th century. Colors seem to be all natural. Therefor one may conclude that the piece is from a period around 1900 or slightly earlier although in almost perfect condition. for detail see >> (32)

(14) women's shawl 'tabrdouhte' (arab. handira), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, 235 x 85 cm (92,5'' x 33,5''), around 1900. This example contains only fine industrial cotton yarns (3 ply machine spun) in the design parts. The colours are predominantly natural but one can also find small amounts of early synthetic dyes, namely a Fuchsin violet (a colour that had been invented in 1858 and that has been available in the remote areas of the Middle Atlas from the end of the 19th century on). Although this piece looks much more worn than the previous one, one can only conclude that the period of production is most likely not before ca. 1900. for detail see >> (33)

(15) women's wrapping textile 'tahraoukht' (arab. 'haïk'), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, 420 x 130 cm (165,4'' x 51,2''), early 20th cent. This example contains only fine industrial cotton yarns (3 ply machine spun) in the design parts and also - beside a dominating natural indigo blue and a natural yellow dye - a synthetic red Azo dye, a colour that has been invented in the mid 1880ies and that has been available in the remote areas of the Middle Atlas from the early 20th century on. Despite the worn + stained condition a production date in the early 20th century can be concluded.

(16) women's wrapping textile 'tahraoukht' (arab. 'haïk'), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, 410 x 130 cm (161,4'' x 51,2''), early 20th cent. This example contains very few fine industrial cotton yarns (3 ply machine spun) in the design parts while the two colours, an indigo blue and a dark brown are obviously natural. Although in overall good condition (except the holes caused by the use of the fibulae) the absence of synthetic dyes makes it likely that this textile is older than the previous one.

(17) women's belt 'abkass ouziza', Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, 585 cm (230''), first third 20th cent. The woolen parts are dyed with an indigo blue and a probably natural brown. The silk parts seem to contain synthetic dyes. The small silver-plated copper sequins are known to be used until ca. 1930/40. A production in the first third of the 20th century can be assumed.

(18) men's wrapping textile (arab. 'haïk'), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, 435 x 120 cm (171,3'' x 47,2''), wool, silk (?), third quarter 20th century (information given by the original owners when collected in the field) . The weaving width is not wider than 120 cm (ca. 47'').

(19) men's wrapping textile (arab. 'haïk'), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco, 400 x 100 cm (157,5'' x 39,4''), wool, silk (?), early 20th century (information given by the original owners when collected in the field). Also this example shows a weaving width of not more than 100 cm (ca. 40''). Therefor it is logic to find intact selvedges in the 'taritat' veils even if the ground fabric is taken from an old wrapping textile such as this one (as described by Marcel Vicaire).