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Berber Veils
- 24-12-2009
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Rabaté further deduces from the woven side borders and end fringes that the ground fabric must be of recent production. She evidently discounts Vicaire’s mention not only of old wrapping cloths (“un vieux haïk”), but also cloths “en mousseline de laine, armure toile” (of woollen muslin, balanced plainweave). This construction does not occur on Ahel Telt women’s haiks, which had to be opaque, and were most often made of very ï¬ne but relatively dense weft-faced plainweave (15), (16), (28), (29). Old men’s haiks have the same ï¬ne, slightly sheer structure as the veils, with a working width of some 100-120cm, which is why, even when made from old textiles, the headscarves show both side borders (18) + (19).
The headbands, undoubtedly made in the Ahel Telt region, have a similar ï¬ne plainwoven structure, but it is possible that some of the men’s haiks were bought in from professional craftsmen, presumably in Taza, the main market town north of the territory of the Ahel Telt. If some haiks were bought in or made on demand, the ï¬ne, loose plainwoven ground fabric for 'taritat' could have been produced the same way. But it is also probable that at least some of it was woven locally.
Most of the surviving textiles of this group, whatever their condition, have the same structure as the men’s 'haïks', which corresponds to Vicaire’s description (20) - (27).

(20) detail of a headband 'tachedat n'tritat' >>(11), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco. The structure resembles the one of the 'taritat' veils and the men's wrapping textiles (arab. 'haïk') and bears witnesses that the Ahel Telt weavers have certainly been familiar with the production of this balanced plainweave or woolen muslin.

(21) detail of a men's wrapping textile (arab. 'haïk') >>(18), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco. The half transparent balanced plainweave or woolen muslin structure is similar to the one of the 'taritat' veils.

(22) detail of a men's wrapping textile (arab. 'haïk') >>(19), Ahel Telt (Beni Ouarain confederation), north eastern Middle Atlas, Morocco. The half transparent balanced plainweave or woolen muslin structure is similar to the one of the 'taritat' veils. The irregularity of the fabric makes it quite likely that the textile is of local origin rather than having been woven by a professional weaver in workshop circumstances in Taza.

(23) detail of a 'taritat' (4). The presence of the decorative cotton bands on just one side of the textile suggests that the fabric has been cut from a larger men's wrapping textile (arab. 'haïk'). Again also the structure resembles the one of the headbands and the men's haïk.

(24) detail of a 'taritat' (4). The opposite end of the textile is rolled up, sewn and also the fringes are sewn to the fabric what underlines that the fabric has been cut down from a larger textile with only one original end left. This fact matches exactly with the method described by Marcel Vicaire. Both selvedges however are intact as the weaving width of 98 cm (ca. 39'') matches with the original weaving width of the haïk.

(25) detail of a 'taritat' (6). The textile shows quite significant wear overall. The selvedges are intact however.

(26) detail of a 'taritat' (8). The fabric is thinned out all over the surface of the textile. None of the selvedges or ends has remained. This example shows every significant attribute of a textile that has been in regular use for a very long time. Field records underline that these textiles had been in every day's use in the period before the French protectorate. Meanwhile in the period since ca. 1920/30 these textiles have only been worn in special occasions, such as traditional weddings.

(27) detail of a 'taritat' (10). Even in this heavily damaged fragment parts of the original selvedge can be found. Another clue that in the traditional way of manufacturing such veils the fabric had never been cut along the selvedges.

(28) detail of a women's wrapping textile 'tahraoukht' (arab. 'haïk') (15)

(29) detail of a women's wrapping textile 'tahraoukht' (arab. 'haïk') (15). The weft faced weave is obviously too dense and too heavy for a veil, namely for a fabric that has been described as "en mousseline de laine, armure toile" (of woolen musline, balanced plain weave) by Marcel Vicaire.

(30) detail of a women's wrapping textile 'tahraoukht' (arab. 'haïk') (16)

(30) detail of a women's wrapping textile 'tahraoukht' (arab. 'haïk') (16) . Motives and technique resemble the ones found on the headbands.
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