Matthew Paris' 'other' map of Palestine

by Evelyn Edson

St. Alban's Abbey in Hertfordshire, England, was an important Benedictine monastery in the Middle Ages (and is still a great draw for pilgrims and tourists today) partly because of its proximity to London at a time when travelling was very difficult. At the beginning of the thirteenth century the Abbey's chronicler was Matthew Paris, one of the monks, who is now well known as one of the earliest map makers. Studies of his map of Britain and his so-called 'road' or itinerary map have been made before but little is known of his map of Palestine discussed here by Evelyn Edson, a Professor of History at Piedmont Virginia Community College, Charlottesville, Virginia, USA.

"IT IS A MISTAKE to regard accuracy as the goal and ideal of the medieval map maker," wrote John Wright in his influential book, Geographical lore at the time of the crusades (1925), and his judgement has been echoed by subsequent cartographic historians.[1] Not all medieval map makers were uninterested in geographical accuracy, however. An outstanding witness to this point is the map of Palestine bound in a bible and preserved in the library of Corpus Christi College, Oxford, as Ms. 2*. This map, now attributed to Matthew Paris,[2] is a genuine travellers' map of the area which excited a great deal of energy and interest in thirteenth-century Europe. The map is rare among medieval maps in that it is a current events map, sober and factual in presentation, rather than a manuscript decorated with imaginary places or monsters as was more common.

The map is drawn on a bifolium (two sheets joined), the verso of which is occupied by two twelfth-century painted miniatures.[3] The main part of the map is on the left-hand page, with only sketchy extensions on the right (east). On this page also appears a series of notes made apparently by Matthew to himself on places outside the map's sphere, such as Tarsus, Arabia, Parthia, the distance from Acre to Cyprus.[4] On the same page, also in Matthew's handwriting, is a list of the grievances of the English church, which is copied in the chronicle entry for 1246.[5]

Release of the French prisoners by Richard of Cornwall, April 23, 1241. The prisoners, taken in a skirmish before Gaza in November 1239, had been abandoned by their fellow countrymen when the French crusaders left Palestine in October 1240, ten days before the arrival of the English. Richard's brief crusade is reported in detail in the Chronica Majora, accompanied by seven illustrations. The preparations for this crusade may have been the reason for Matthew's map of Palestine, see illustration on page 21. (By permission of the Librarian, Parker Library, Corpus Christi College, Cambridge Ms. 16, F 148R).

Matthew Paris (c. 1200-1259), a Benedictine monk, was a chronicle writer and an artist. He took up the great St. Alban's chronicle where Roger of Wendover left off in 1235 and continued it until his own death in 1259. The necessity of keeping an Easter calendar and the tradition of Benedictine scholarship led to the keeping of annals or chronicles. A specially designated monk kept records of the appointment of abbots, legal activities and land acquisitions, local curiosities and happenings. In the case of the St. Alban's Chronicle, Matthew Paris and Roger of Wendover went well beyond these minimal records to provide a narrative history of their times. Matthew further embellished his work with lively pictures: battles, ceremonies, monstrosities, and the famous elephant which was a gift from the King of France.[6] Among these illustrations were his maps. Each copy of the Chronica Majora, (there are three surviving copies each accompanied by a set of maps) or St. Alban's Chronicle, was originally prefaced with a (mapped) itinerary from London to Apulia, a map of Palestine, and one of Britain.[7] He experimented with a variety of forms, and his maps may be said to represent most of the possibilities of medieval cartography. There is the itinerary, a strip map showing city by city a journey from London to Otranto in Apulia and, alternatively, to Sicily, either one an embarkation point for the Holy Land. He tried his hand at a mappa mundi, which he said was a copy of the one at Waltham Abbey in Essex.[8] He drew a succession of maps of Britain notable for their accuracy and progressive development. Yet he also drew Situs Britannica in which the kingdom is represented abstractly as a floral emblem. Another map of Britain shows the four chief roads intersecting (which they actually do not) in schematic fashion.

His maps of Palestine, with the exception of the Oxford map, are heavily decked out with pictures and text. In contrast the Palestine map in Oxford is rather restrained. Only a few small drawings (a star over Bethlehem, two pitchers at the site of Cana) ornament the map, and the text is mainly place names. On it can be found many of the important sites for a Crusader pilgrim of the thirteenth century: fortresses, monasteries, roads, ports, bishops' seats, and holy sites. Here Damietta and Tripoli co-exist with the ditch where Adam was made and Rachel's tomb; the great Crusader castle of Krak des Chevaliers ("the Parthenon… of medieval castles"[9]) with the salt statue of Lot's wife. These are not amusing archaisms, but reflect the interest of the thirteenth century. Travellers to the Holy Land made heroic efforts to see, for example, the above-mentioned salt pillar. About 1280 Burchard of Mount Sion reports with vexation, "I strove hard to see this, but the Saracens told me that the place was unsafe… I have learned since that it was not so."[10] Estimates of travel time line the coast in an attempt to establish scale, and there are warnings of lions in the forest near Arsuf and advice on the best road to Jerusalem. Matthew even shows the rise and fall in the elevation of the road as it continues to Jericho.

One twelfth century map of the Holy Land which has been compared to the work of Matthew Paris is this one bound with Jerome's De situ et nominibus locorum hebraicorum, his glossary of Biblical place names (British Library, Add. Ms. 10049, ff. 64, r-v). Miller proposed that this map was a descendant of the one Jerome says he made himself when translating the Onomasitcon of Eusebius. Compared item by item, as well as in general form, it differs a great deal from Matthew Paris' Oxford map, (discussed here) but what they have in common is a certain sober, topographical character with a minimum of decoration and anecdote. On the whole Matthew's map is more accurate and up-to- date. The latest place names on the Jerome map date from the seventh century, whereas Matthew's map contains many names not known in the west before the twelfth century. No other Eusebius/Jerome maps survive in manuscript, but the sixth century floor mosaic from the church in Madaba (Jordan) appears to be based on Eusebius' Greek text. In this map east is at the top, and the coast from Sidon to Gaza at the bottom. Constantinople is in the lower left corner. Most prominent features are the Columns of Hercules and of Alexander together in the east, next to the oracle of the sun and the moon, and the circular city of Jerusalem with the Tower of David. On the reverse of this map is one of Asia. (By courtesy of the British Library, London).


  • 1-3-1994

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